We aren't just a community, we also have an online shop that stocks everything you need.
| M | T | W | T | F | S | S |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| « Apr | ||||||
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | |
| 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 |
| 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 |
| 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 |
| 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | |||
blogs books Brause brushes calliagraphy courses calligraphers calligraphy calligraphy equipment calligraphy gifts Calligraphy Groups calligraphy sets copperplate drawing and mapping nibs drawing equipment gilding gilding equipment gilding materials guidelines illumination Indian ink Inks and Paints Kolner learning calligraphy Leonardt Manuscript marker pens nibs paints Paper penholders pens pointed nibs practising ruling-up Scribblers Sealing Wax Speedball square-cut nibs SSI Starting Calligraphy Tips websites William Mitchell writing sets Zig
WP Cumulus Flash tag cloud by Roy Tanck requires Flash Player 9 or better.
We are now stocking Leonardt Copperplate Nibs.
| Leonardt Shorthand NibVery flexible nib |
 |
| Leonardt Crown NibA fine nib specially suited to Copperplate writing. Bronze finish |
 |
| Leonardt Point NibSuitable for small Copperplate writing. Nickel finish |
 |
A running cursive derived from Italic was developed, referred to as ’roundhand’. The engraver’s tool could better reproduce writing made with a pointed rather than an edged pen. From this engraving method the ’roundhand’ became termed ‘copperplate’. Although Copperplate appears as a cursive script, it is in fact built up from a series of pen strokes. Gaynor Goffe has added Copperplate Minuscules (lower case letters) to her range of short courses. The Copperplate Minuscules course will teach you how to write the lower-case (minuscule) letters. You will start with learning the letterforms and pressure and release technique in pencil, followed by 3 lessons using the pen. With the pen you start with the basic letter strokes learning how to control the pointed nib. You will then combine these strokes to build up the letters of the alphabet. The letters of the alphabet are studied in groups based upon their characteristics. The course consists of 4 lesson, each lesson building up the skills necessary to write Copperplate Minuscules.Marking by Gaynor is detailed with individual guidance, corrections demonstrated and prompt return of work.
Copperplate Minuscules Course
Copperplate, a calligraphic style popular in England in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, remains one of the most elegant and popular styles among calligraphers. This volume is a complete manual on the technique of writing with the pointed pen in roundhand, which is the American version of copperplate.
You’ll find detailed step-by-step instructions for executing the straight stroke, variations on the straight stroke (heavy strokes, hairline), curved stroke, push stroke, shading, ligatures, and other components of the style. Mastery of these strokes will in turn enable you to form lower-case letters and variations, capitals, alternate forms of capitals, numerals, and more.The author has provided numerous sample letters in both upper and lower case, alphabet sentences, and two short compositions for use in learning to draw the letters properly. Also included are helpful suggestions on selection and care of a calligrapher’s tools: inks, nibs, paper.A model book as well as an instruction book, The Technique of Copperplate Calligraphy is completely written in roundhand. By carefully studying its elegant script and practicing the formation of letters according to the author’s expert advice, even beginning calligraphers can achieve a good standard of the influential and distinctive copperplate style.This is useful book to have in your collection. Along with ‘Mastering Copperplate Calligraphy’ this book will help you work out the order and directions of the penstrokes for both lower and upper case letters.Original Dover (1987) publication. Foreword. 48pp. 8″ x 11″. Paperbound.Scribblers Calligraphy Books
With Copperplate, it is important to have the right equipment and materials.Drawing BoardFor most work, a calligrapher will use a drawing board, which if at the correct angle will help improve ink flow. When writing Copperplate, I personally tend not to use a board. By having the paper flat on the desk, it naturally increases the ink flow because the penholder and nib will be more upright.NibsPointed nibs will not last very long. Typically they will start to scratch after writing only a few A3 pages. Some nibs are better than others. The Leonardt Principal EF nib will normally last longer than the Gillott nibs. Vintage nibs last longer than most of the modern nibs.When the nibs start to scratch, I know some calligraphers have tried to sharpen them – I believe with mixed results. I have never had any success with sharpening pointed nibs.InkThe right ink is important. Many inks are too thick and will not flow well from the nib. Some inks are thin enough to flow, but are still quite thick and give a heavier hairline. Often it is possible to make the ink the correct consistency by adding a little water. For best results I use Walker’s Copperplate Ink. This recipe has been fine tuned by Brian Walker over the years and gives excellent results – a very fine hairline and dark shades.PaperThe paper must be very smooth for Copperplate. If the paper is not smooth enough the nib will catch on it as you try and make it glide over the paper. If the nib is starting to scratch or the paper is not smooth enough, you will be disappointed with your efforts and very quickly become disheartened. Ordinary layout paper can be suitable as can a quality, but very smooth cartridge paper. For final pieces of work use a quality paper, these include some papers designed for ink-jet printers. The most popular paper for Copperplate is Character Paper.
The Copperplate Special Interest Group was founded in 1995 by Jim Linwood to address the needs of pointed pen enthusiasts. Prior to this, there had been a lack of focus for lovers of Copperplate and other pointed pen calligraphy. The aim of the group is to promote Copperplate as a beautiful calligraphic hand.Since the group was set up, interest has grown in the hand, and we now have an enthusiastic membership of over 180 worldwide, incorporating all ranges of ability from the very beginner to some eminent and expert broad-edge calligraphers.We keep our members in touch with four newsletters a year, which include information on nibs, suitable inks and papers, samples of work, hints and tips, events and workshops.We run an Envelope Exchange scheme every six months, and a ‘mentoring’ scheme in which the less experienced can receive help to improve their Copperplate from the more experienced. There is also an ongoing project which culminates in a yearly calendar.We are a friendly and inclusive group, and we welcome new members. Membership is open to anyone who has an interest in Copperplate.Membership is currently £9 per year for UK members, and £13 per year for overseas members.For more information email Joy Daniels at: joydaniels [at] ntlworld [dot] com
BooksFew Calligraphy books give instructions on Copperplate writing. In many cases they only give a couple of examples of Copperplate and do not go into any great detail about how the letterforms are constructed.There are a few good Copperplate books around, but be aware of their limitations.
 |
THE UNIVERSAL PENMANDover Publications. ISBN 0-486-20616-5This is a reprint of an 18th century work. There are pages upon pages of Copperplate examples. This is the book for all Copperplaters. |
| MASTERING COPPERPLATE by Eleanor Winters.Watson-Guptill Publications, NY. ISBN 0-8230-3022-9A very detailed book, with over 190 pages. This book gives good instructions on constructing Copperplate minuscule letters. Examples of bad letterforms are also included to help identify the most common mistakes. This book is not so good for Capital letters. |  |
COPPERPLATE CALLIGRAPHY by Dick JacksonMacmillan Publishing Inc. NY. ISBN 0-02-011710-8This book shows you what not to do as well as what to do. A bit prescriptive, saying you must do it like this.THE TECHNIQUE OF COPPERPLATE CALLIGRAPHY by Gordon Turner.Dover Publications. ISBN 0-486-25512-3The whole of this small book (42 pages) is written in Copperplate. Unlike the other books, it does not go through the basic strokes that make up the lower case letters.Scribblers Copperplate books
The follow posts have been taken from Scribblers Community. You may find them useful if you are new to Copperplate.I’m left handed and want to learn copperplate, will I need left handed nibs or is it immaterial with pointed nibs? This might sound stupid, but I’m only at the “get a dip pen” stage. MartinNo, pointed nibs are all good for left- and righthanded writing. Nonetheless you will need to experiment and find a different way of writing; since while holding the pen in the left hand, it is leaning to the opposite direction than in the right hand. Don’t let this discourage you, I’m lefthanded too, and I don’t find it particularly difficult For example, turn the paper around to fit the strokes. I usually turn the paper 180 degrees, and letter upside-down, that way my hand is before the letters, not behind them. It’s not too difficult to see your letters upside-down. GaborCopperplate is actually EASIER for left-handers than right handers in as much , as you DON’T have to turn the paper at all, just keep writing lines horizontal as usual, and ensure pen holder is aligned in direction of the slope lines ( ie 54 degrees from the horizontal) so nib is in alignment with the slope lines too). Brause EF66 are excellent nibs for copperplate. Gaynor
Copperplate looks like it is written at speed because the letters are joined (cursive). In fact Copperplate needs to be written very slowly. Although the letters appear joined, the letters are not written as one continuous stroke. They are built up from a series of pen strokes. A good pen control is required to produce the characteristic hairlines and thick strokes.Ruling-UpWith all styles of Calligraphy it is recommended you first practising writing with a larger text height (x-height). Unlike broad-edged calligraphy, the x-height is not measured in terms of nib widths. Typical x-heights are 4, 5 or 6mm. The ‘normal’ ratio of ascender – x-heights – descender is 3:2:3. Therefore if you have an x-height of 4mm, you would have 6mm for ascenders and descenders. However, these are only guidelines.Copperplate writing has a steep slope, typically 54 degrees from the horizontal. It can be hard to write at such a steep angle (especially if you are right-handed). This is why a right-handed calligrapher will typically use an oblique penholder to help ‘point’ the nib in the right direction. A left-handed calligrapher, holding a straight pen holder will automatically have their nib at an angle close to the required 54 degrees. If you are right-handed, rotating the paper in an anti-clockwise direction can help you achieve the correct pen angle. Left handed calligraphers usually they prefer to keep the paper straight. These are only guidelines – experiment to find the combination of pen holder, nib type and paper angle that is most comfortable for you.It is useful to construct the 54 degree line on you guideline sheet. Once you have constructed the first line it can be easily duplicated across the paper by using the width of the ruler to produce a line parallel to the original line. Now slide the ruler over to this second guideline and draw in the third line. This process can be repeated across the whole page.It is worth spending time accurately producing a guide sheet as it can be photocopied at different enlargement settings to produce several guide sheets at various x-heights. If you do this you will need to have heavy but fine lines. You could use a fine biro pen to do this.Scribblers guideline generator can help you with ruling up.Drawing BoardWith most styles of Calligraphy the drawing board is at quite a steep angle. With Copperplate writing the board needs to be at a much flatter angle. This makes the up strokes easier and helps prevent the nib from digging in to the paper. A flatter angle also helps ink flow, because the nib will be at a steeper angle to the paper.
Specialised equipment is required for Copperplate writing.NibsYou need to use a pointed nib for Copperplate, which does not have a reservoir. The most commonly used nibs in the UK are probably the Leonardt Principal EF, Gillott 170, 303 and 404.
Others in fairly common use are the Hunt 101 and the Brause 66EF. The Brause 66EF is extremely flexible and useful for those who have some competence in the hand, but not recommended to those who are just starting. It is also possible to buy a Mitchell Copperplate ‘elbow’ nib.Unlike the broad edged pen, the pointed nib cannot be sharpened and does not last anywhere near as long. Therefore, it is strongly advised to purchase several at a time.PenholderThere are two choices of penholders. You can use a straight penholder that you normally use for other calligraphy styles. However, the majority of right-handed calligraphers use an oblique penholder to help deal with the steep writing angles.A straight penholder with an elbow nib or an oblique penholder with a straight nib gives the same general effect. However with an elbow holder you can try a selection of nibs, whereas with a straight holder you are stuck with the one style of nib.
If you are left handed use a straight pen holder with a straight nib. Some right-handed calligraphers also prefer a this combination, but most prefer an oblique penholder with a straight nib.InkNon-waterproof inks like Higgins Eternal are suitable, but they tend to be a bit thick for Copperplate. If you use these types of ink you will probably need to water them down a little.There are two black iron gall inks, which are especially made for Copperplate. These are Walker’s Copperplate Ink and Blot’s Iron Gall Ink. Both these inks are thin and offer fine hairlines. Walker’s Copperplate Ink is a highly researched iron gall ink made to conservation standards. Initially made from a nineteenth century recipe, it is blended still further to achieve a smooth and satisfying ink.
For colour work Schmincke Calligraphy Gouache is the best although other gouaches are acceptable. These also need to be mixed thinner than they would be for normal broad pen work. For best results, mix Gouache 24 hours before it is used. This will help the ink flow.
PaperFor Copperplate writing, you need a very smooth paper. If the paper is not smooth enough the nib will catch on it. For practice ordinary layout paper can be suitable. For final pieces of work use a quality paper, these include some papers designed for ink-jet printers. The most popular paper for Copperplate is Character Paper.
Some ‘Hot’ press papers are good. In general hand-made papers are unsuitable, as are ‘Not’ papers.
For many years the hand which we know today as ‘Copperplate’ was called ‘Roundhand’. Unfortunately that name is now sometimes used by calligraphers as an alternative for the ‘Foundational Hand’ first developed and popularised by Edward Johnston.It is called Copperplate as in the early days the scribe’s writing was transferred by an engraver, using a pointed tool called a burin, on to a plate made of copper. Printed sheets were then made from this plate.Copperplate is also the name of a style of calligraphic writing, using a sharp pointed nib instead of the flat nib used in most calligraphic writing. Fine hairlines are produced when the pointed nib is just touching the paper and no pressure is applied to the nib. Shades (thick strokes) are produced when the scribe applies pressure to open the nib.
Copperlate Materials and EquipmentStarting Copperplate
